Advice for visitors and migrants to Germany

“The only good thing to do with good advice is pass it on; it is never of any use to oneself.” 

Oscar Wilde

For my sins, I have been known to stop by Internet forums from time to time to offer my "two penneth" on various subjects. While there is, of course, no obligation to follow my advice, I'd like to think (without wishing to appear arrogant) that I'm pretty knowledgeable. Where the topic of travel is concerned, I am fortunate enough to have been to a number of countries around the world, and have met people from all walks of life. 

Germany is probably the place that I am best qualified to comment on. I first visited it almost 20 years ago, and, like Geoff Hurst, have had a kind of "love affair" with "Deutschland" ever since. I went on to study German as part of my degree and have lived/worked there for the best part of a decade. Thus, my responses to Germany-related queries have been selected as the best answers on occasions. 

Geoff Hurst (a footballing legend - apparently) raised a few eyebrows with this advertisement a few years back

It has occurred to me that it might be a good idea to reproduce expanded versions of two of my answers, as they could prove useful for prospective visitors or migrants. So, without further ado...

Tourist question

Q: Where in Germany is the best place to visit if you're interested in history, in particular church history and kingdoms and empires? Thank you for any advice.

My answer: If you're interested in Germany's more recent, turbulent history, I would have to recommend Berlin. A few disgruntled visitors on Google have complained about the entrance fee of EUR 12.50 for the House at Checkpoint Charlie, but I do think it is one of the best museums I've ever been to. It may not be very big in size, but it really made an impression on me due to the stories of the unbelievable lengths that people went to in order to escape from east to west. When you consider that the highly-overrated Tower of London now charges the "princely" sum of GBP 22.00 (equivalent to EUR 27.00 or USD 37.00) per person, it isn't that bad a deal. 

Yes, believe it or not, people actually managed to squeeze into suitcases

For me, it was also a very surreal experience to stand outside the museum, on a ridiculously modern street and think that this was actually the spot where so many people lost their lives in their desperate attempts to flee the Soviet sector.

Checkpoint Charlie today. The actual checkpoint is now just a tourist gimmick. And no, your eyes are not deceiving you - that is McDonald's in the background! 

Indeed, large portions of the city have been rebuilt/ restored following reunification. Most notably, the Brandenburg Gate now looks a bit like something out of an IKEA catalogue - after they replaced many of the old bricks.

The Brandenburg Gate before the wall came down

The new, "improved" version following restoration

However, there are still plenty of historical buildings in the area. For instance, you can visit the Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral), which contains the remains of many of the Hohenzollern dynasty.

South Germany tends to be the most picturesque part of the country. I only really know Munich, but it's a good base to start, although you should avoid it in September as prices will go sky high because of the Oktoberfest (mad Bavarian beer festival). The centre (Marienplatz) is home to the Frauenkirche where various archbishops and dukes are interred. 

The Frauenkirche, photographed by Moi

Dachau concentration camp is just outside Munich and entry is free, although the place is a bit depressing. 

The entrance to Dachau Concentration Camp, also photographed by me, in 2009

If you're able to travel further afield, it may be worth visiting the Ludwigsburg Palace which is not too far from Stuttgart and also featured in the Boris Johnson episode of Who Do You Think You Are. I seem to recall it was home to the kings of Württemberg until the end of World War I. 

And of course, I do have to mention Cologne's famous Gothic cathedral. It is hugely impressive as churches go, but absolutely terrifying to climb due to its very steep winding stairs. The rest of Cologne (and the surrounding area) is not that interesting with regard to historical attractions, though. 

Finally, I must advise you wrap up warm if you intend to come over in winter. Germany gets VERY cold and minus ten degrees Celsius during the day is not unusual!

Asker's comment and rating: ***** I'm not waiting for more answers. You have taken so much time to write such a thorough answer which is very helpful to me. Thank you so much!

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Migrant question

Q: I am thinking about moving to Germany from USA. What would be things that Germany has and does not have compared to the USA? Basically, what are the pros and cons of each country?

My answer: I love Germany, but if there's one piece of advice I'd give to prospective migrants, it's to be prepared for A LOT of bureaucracy. 

Once you arrive, you will have to register your address (as well as any vehicles you own) with various authorities and it's mandatory that you have health insurance of some kind. Also, check in advance what the policy is with regard to visas. If you don't have an EU passport, it may be difficult to get a work visa as you normally have to prove that a German can't do your job. This may not apply if you are married to a German citizen, however. 

Getting into Heaven is expensive these days

Be warned: you will be asked once you register or when you start a job what your religion is. This is not a "diversity question". Unless you are exceptionally devout, I'd strongly recommend saying you're an atheist or you will end up paying church tax,  which currently amounts to 8% of your income! 

Rent (with the exception of certain cities such as Munich or Frankfurt) is generally reasonable, BUT beware of going through an agent, who will charge you the equivalent of up to three months' rent as a fee. That's in addition to another two or three months' rent that a landlord will require as deposit. Also be warned that most apartments come totally unfurnished - and don't even have a kitchen! Germans also have a very long notice period. If you want to cancel anything - from cellphone (mobile phone) contracts to vacating your apartment, you have to inform the appropriate people in writing three months in advance. 

A typical German apartment for rent - white wallpaper, wooden laminate flooring and not much else

The good thing about Germany is that there's comparatively little violent crime. That doesn't mean it never happens, but you are less likely to encounter punch-ups outside bars on a Saturday night. I have quite happily walked round various German city centres on my own in the evening without feeling threatened. Public transport is quick and reliable, and Germany borders nine other countries, allowing excellent travel opportunities. 

Germany has a rich cultural history (albeit one which is also controversial), its scenery is beautiful, cities tend to be fairly clean and well-kept, and the cost of living in relation to wages is fairly good. The social welfare system takes care of you too. As long as you have paid into the system for at least two years, you will get 60% of your last net wage (for 12 months) if you lose your job. 

Yes, Germany can be beautiful!

Personally, I'm not too keen on traditional German food, but there are plenty of fantastic international restaurants. I would certainly recommend Greek, Italian and Turkish eateries. They also say German beer is among the best in the world, although I have never been a fan of that particular beverage. You will find that fast food is much more expensive than in the USA, however, and you don't get free refills for drinks. Portions are typically not as huge as in the States, either. Supermarkets tend to be small and don't have the same variety that people from the UK or the States are used to. That said, you may find some specialist shops and nearly everything you want can be ordered online nowadays. 

Customer service (especially from Deutsche Telekom) can be pretty abysmal. Don't be surprised if some people are downright rude to you. I hasten to add that this doesn't apply to everyone, though. Most of the younger generation (and many business people) are able and willing to speak English, but life will be much easier and more enjoyable if you learn German. All movies are dubbed, but you may find a few cinemas in big cities that show films in the original language. 

Hope I haven't made things sound too scary. If you can get past all that and are well-prepared, Germany really can be a great place to live.